ST AGNES TO HOLYWELL BAY

Everyone has to foster an interest once retired, and Paul is no exception.  He has managed to combine his love of spreadsheets and pubs to create a list of all Wetherspoon establishments in order to log whenever we visit a new one [don’t judge!].  There aren’t that many in Cornwall, but there is one in Perranporth, our planned lunch stop for this day, which is why we had to walk inland past other pubs and cafes to get there!  I’d faced steep ups and downs on painful toes that morning, so adopted dual tactics to deal with it; a second dose of paracetamol, washed down with a gin and tonic [or two-don’t judge!].  We spent a full hour there, so I was feeling properly refreshed by the time we set out to cross the huge beaches at the town and Perran Sands.

When we started the day, there had been no pleasant warm up;  it was overcast with a cold wind, and we were straight into an ascent which I describe in my voice memo as “steps and stones, steps and stones”.  At least the wind was acting as a coolant as I got very hot, very quickly!  This was after already fighting our way through gorse overgrowing the Path-I do like to walk in shorts if possible, but there are times when my legs are exposed to prickles [and nettle stings] and this was one such.  I’d wrapped my toes in fresh Compeed, but once blisters have formed I know I’ll just have to suffer until the walk is finished-meanwhile it’s a case of damage limitation.

It took us an hour and ten minutes to cover two miles, but once we attained the more open cliff top, we had some respite [though colder now, it was time to get the fleeces on] and were able to pick up the speed towards our lunch stop.  Alongside us, the terrain was littered with ruins, presumably of former mineworks.  Further on, we actually got to walk on tarmac as we skirted Perranporth Airport, passing more ruins-these looked like World War II fortifications or gun emplacements.

Paul and I next had to face our respective pet hates; mine was a descent on loose stones that I described in my memo [somewhat testily] as “ridiculously steep”.  I lost my footing a couple of times, but had been holding onto Paul’s hand, so managed to stay upright.  Paul’s least favourite sections of path are those where we are high up with a view of a vertiginous drop.  In this instance we were walking close to the edge, on a track cut into a cliff side on the approach to Perranporth.  We were both very happy to reach the bustling town and break for lunch.

We resumed at one o’clock and began to cross the beach-there were surfers, dog walkers, sunbathers, and swimmers, but still plenty of space on the sand.  In the distance, we could see three paragliders flying over the next beach.  We headed towards them taking in a steady ascent on a grassy hill, with multiple paths cut into it; at this point we deliberately strayed from the official path to follow one that looked easier to walk on.  After a while, it seemed prudent to get back to the path proper, so Paul got his phone out and started heading uphill and inland.  On the way, I saw two of the paragliders sitting on the grassy section where they had based themselves-Paul was slightly ahead of me, engrossed in his phone, but I could see the third paraglider zooming in towards us!  I got a spurt on, to clear his landing zone, and steered Paul out of the way as the paraglider passed just a few feet above us.  Paul remonstrated with me, still blissfully unaware of how close he’d come to being knocked over!

Using Komoot, we found our way back to where we thought the path should be, but by now we were amongst the dunes.  There was no obvious route, multiple possibilities, and a total lack of signage, so Paul had a bit of a meltdown, [trying to reconcile the route on the App with the reality on the ground was taking its toll] ranting about missing signposts.  Our legs were getting tired at this stage too; the sand was really deep, especially when we had to go uphill.  The poles didn’t help here, as they just sank deep down, leaving us to try to outrun ourselves upwards faster than we were sinking down again!  We were relieved to get out of the dunes onto the massive beach at Perran Sands.  It was still tough going on the legs but at least my feet were feeling more comfortable crossing sand rather than sharp stones [plus the pills and alcohol had kicked in methinks!].  

After a final punishing, but mercifully brief, ascent, we had a more pleasant time on the cliff top.  The weather had really come good in the afternoon, blue sky and fluffy clouds, below us a beautiful turquoise sea.  Inland, we passed an area that had once been military barracks, but was now looking sadly somewhat derelict.  We glimpsed Holywell Bay, though it disappeared from view as we skirted the headland.   We arrived in the village too early to check in to our accommodation, but the Holywell Beach Bar had a lovely outside area where we could rest up.  We contemplated today’s walk and were pretty satisfied overall.

Stats of the day:-

Time 3 hr 39 mins.  Distance 9.26 miles.  Pace 2.5mph.  Ascent 1200 ft.  Descent 1200 ft.