Day 5 Holywell Bay to Newquay

We’d had the best shower of the week at our stay in Holywell Bay, followed by a leisurely breakfast and late start of 9.45 am.  For once though, it wasn’t only me nursing my feet; Paul [“I love my boots and will get the exact same pair again when they wear out”] was suffering from blisters on the tender part of the foot just below the toes, next to the ball.  If the cause was walking on the dunes yesterday, there was bad news; more of the same lay ahead.

As soon as we hit the coastline, we were faced with the dreaded dunes and multiple paths, so it took us a while to get on the exact route.  The sand was nice and soft underfoot, but our feet sunk so deep our boots began filling up with the stuff.  The hills were small, but we were up and down repeatedly;  I began to take fast little steps to out run the sinking!  It was a relief to get through it and rest on a grassy knoll, whilst emptying our boots.  Mine were now in a very sorry state, I just hoped they would last for this day and the next.  Fortunately, the going improved, the biggest hazards now facing us being heaps of sheep and rabbit droppings!  [The sheep themselves I didn’t rate as a danger, as they seemed too busy trying to annihilate themselves, resting and walking right by the cliff edge.]  We had a bit of an easier stretch here as we made our way towards the oddly named beach of Polly Joke.  A footbridge took us across the stone strewn inlet, after which we ascended the headland taking us to Crantock.  Our target was the Bowgie Inn, a stamping point, so we waited ten minutes for it to open at 11.45 am [the sign for Tarquin’s Gin had absolutely nothing to do with it.  Well, maybe a little…!].  

Suitably refreshed, we continued past Crantock, which included fighting our way through some foliage [a regular feature of the Path]. We knew we’d have to cross the river Gannel shortly.  A check of the tide times showed that the water was too high for us to attempt walking over the footbridge, so we made our way through the beach car park, and across the sand to cross via the Fernpit Ferry.  As we approached the water’s edge, we could see no landing place or signage, but luckily, there were a few people waving and whistling towards the small hut opposite, and we realised this was how you attracted the attention of the ferryman!  A small boat soon headed our way, and a few minutes later and a few quid lighter, we were on the other side.  A long and steep flight of steps was the only way onward.  At the top, we were walking on normal paths through the residential area of Pentire.  We hit Fistral beach next, buzzing with surfers and holidaymakers, at the end of which, we stopped for a Cornish pasty for lunch.  The rest of the walk took us through Newquay, familiar territory from our previous walk, just much busier.  Paul’s feet were hurting him, and mine were pretty tired, so we both collapsed on the bed at our accommodation, thinking we’ve only got one more short walk to go-we can make it, can’t we?

Stats of the day:-

Time 3 hrs.  Distance 7.71 miles.  Pace 2.6 mph.  Ascent 775 ft. Descent 775 ft.

Day 6 Mawgan Porth to Newquay

Today’s walk really belonged on our last trip, but we had cut it short so I could see my horse racing at Newbury.  As our car was parked in Newquay, we checked out and put the luggage in the car, then walked the few minutes to the bus station, where we caught our old friend the number 56 bus at 9.20 am, getting off at Mawgan Porth.  We had a latte and croissant at a cafe opposite the bus stop, before setting off.  

We started with the usual ascent, before following a stony track, but not as bad as the ones we had encountered earlier in the week.  What I did notice was how many runners there were on this section, travelling in both directions.  I am always slightly in awe of the people I see running on the Path, but it is evidently very popular on this section in particular.

Watergate Bay was our lunch stop, in a restaurant with a table overlooking the beach.  Bit posher than usual, but it was the last day of this leg!  Paul said his feet were all right, and we were making good time.  We didn’t want to linger unnecessarily, as we had the drive home ahead.  A steady ascent ensued, with a good path once we hit the cliff top.  On the outskirts of Newquay, we rested at the Jumpen Cafe, another stamping point, where I was apparently the first person to ask for a stamp, despite them having it for nearly a year!  We looked quite close to the town at this point, but according to our Komoot plan, we still had two miles to go.

The final stretch was completed uneventfully and on good paths or grass.  We said a final farewell to the Griffin Inn, which had hosted us twice now, as we made our way through Newquay back to the car.  I was relieved to change into my flip flops for the journey home.  Paul’s feet were bad enough to make him limp slightly, but we had completed the planned route!  Final thoughts from this leg were that a visit to Go Outdoors was urgent; new boots for me and gel insoles for Paul on the shopping list.  The long second day on this leg had really set us back, so we determined to try and keep future daily distances within our modest capabilities.  I know I tend to emphasise the problems, but we wouldn’t keep coming back for more if it was too bad!  Accordingly, another leg for August was planned and booked;  little did I know I was about to face my worst day ever on the Path…

Stats of the day:-

Time 2 hrs 19 mins.  6.24 miles.  Pace 2.7 mph.  Ascent 750 ft.  Descent 675 ft.