DAY 3 CLOVELLY TO TITCHBERRY

Most walkers would spend this day going all the way to Hartland Quay, but we know our limitations, so had spent some time seeking out a place to stay around half way.  Paul had found a farm a short distance inland offering a shepherd’s pod.  As it was fairly isolated (on foot) the farm was also providing our evening meal.  I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, but getting there looked to be a more pleasant experience than the day before, as the rain had gone and the sun come out again.

Actually, the previous day’s walk would have been fine had it not been for the rain; our legs and toes were feeling good, though my knee must have twinged a little as I noted taking some tablets.  We set off about 9.40am, back up the cobbled street to the visitor centre and beyond.  Our route appeared to take us along the road, but after half a mile Paul realised we had missed our turn off and we had to retrace our steps-not the best start!  Back at the junction, there was a gate into the Clovelly estate, where we came across yet another fallen tree (theme of the week).  The path was good, either grassy tracks or through woodland, and we were also catching glimpses of the sea from our high viewpoint.  By 11.30am we had covered a steep descent down to Blackchurch cove, followed by the inevitable ascent immediately after, but I was pretty pleased with how I was coping (my fitness does improve as the days progress).  We had a good view of the unusual rock formation on the beach below.

The Path then took us through an area owned by the National Trust, so there were plenty of other walkers about, many with dogs.  Although this was another steep ascent, there were benches to rest upon, but this definitely rated as a gasper.  Once achieved though, it was easy going from then, alongside fields, including one with an attractive wild flower margin.  I have been making an effort to photograph the actual Path much better, not just focus on the stunning views.

We reached the pod around 2.30pm, and immediately made a cup of tea to enjoy on the outside deck.  The cows had been quite distant when we first arrived, but quickly came over to check us out, (curious as a cow?).  Although they came very close, Paul was relaxed about it this time, as there was a fence between us, and they soon got bored and wandered off.  Luckily, it was warm enough to sit outside, as there was just the bed to sit on inside!  The pod was very cute, but extremely tight on space-the toilet doubled as a wet room, with a special cover for the loo roll, and the tiniest wash basin I’ve seen.  It was perfectly fine for one night, but I couldn’t imagine spending a week there.  Later on, we went over to the farmhouse for a roast dinner.  I kept thinking we had everything, and then yet another dish of vegetables would emerge from the kitchen!  We discovered in conversation that our cook’s son-in-law was the manager of our next night’s accommodation, the Hartland Quay hotel.  Getting there would be our last day of relative ease…

Stats:-

Total time 4hr 17mins; moving 2hr 38mins.  Distance 7.03 miles.  Pace 2.7mph.  Ascent 950ft. Descent 925ft.

DAY 4 TITCHBERRY TO HARTLAND QUAY

We had a lazy start to this day, not getting going until 10am, mainly because we had a short distance to reach the Hartland Quay Hotel (we couldn’t break the route exactly half way, but, we quite enjoy having an easier day thrown in during the week).

We planned to have a break at the Hartland Point kiosk (also a passport stamping location) but, to our dismay, it was closed.  These places are of extra importance when there is nothing else around-we were walking along one of the most remote stretches of the Path now.  Our destination consisted of the hotel and a couple of tourist shops, with not so much as a hamlet until Bude three days away, or inland.  That is why we carry emergency rations  as well as water now!  We sat down on the picnic benches to eat a cereal or chocolate bar, and chatted to another couple who were similarly disappointed.

By midday, we had passed Hartland Point Lighthouse, and our first major up and down of the day.  The weather app had forecast a zero per cent chance of rain, so naturally, it began spitting.  I stopped to get my waterproofs on straight away, but Paul soldiered on for a while, until it became too heavy to ignore.  My smug mode was slightly punctured by having to stand around holding Paul’s pole and bag while he faffed around firstly getting his waterproofs on, then tried to put the cover over his rucksack.  It was enough of a palaver for a passing walker to comment on, though he also threw in a warning that a steep hill was ahead!

The hill involved scrambling and climbing, but I was breathing all right at the top, and also after the subsequent valley up and down, a little preview of what awaited us over the next two days.  The final hazard before our arrival was needing to make our way past a herd of cows scattered across the path.  There was no room for us to skirt around them, but they did move a little as we approached.  You will see from the photo that they remained very close to our route.  Even I prefer to keep a bit more distant if possible. Thankfully, neither we, nor the cows, troubled each other on this occasion. 

We arrived at the pub/hotel at 1.30pm, in time for a spot of lunch before we checked in to our room and enjoyed plenty of relaxation time before dinner.  The hotel dining room was decorated with photos of various entertainers who have filmed around Hartland Quay in the past.  It was also close to the place where Jeremy Clarkson’s caravan careered off a cliff!  At dinner time, we ended up chatting with the manager and an American couple on the next table.  They were also walking the Path, planning to cover from Barnstaple to Land’s End, and carrying all their kit with them (impressively condensed to around 15kg each by my recollection).  We quickly established that we would be staying at the same pub on the next night as well (not too great a coincidence, there’s one village and one pub!).

For the next two days we would be covering one of the most notorious stretches of the Path, a series of ten (yes, ten) valleys, no sooner are you down then you’re going back up again.  Even though we had split it into five valleys per day, this was going to be our hardest walk since Zennor to Pendeen.  If I could get through it without crying or falling over, I think that would count as a success!

Stats:-

Total time 3hr 29mins; moving 1hr 48mins.  Distance 4.46 miles.  Pace 2.5mph.  Ascent 650ft.  

Descent 725ft.